The short answer
For most kitchen cabinets, chalk paint is the easier choice. It sticks to degreased, scuff-sanded finishes, and it gives a consistent, opaque result. Milk paint is strongest on raw or stripped wood. On finished cabinets it chips unless you sand back to bare wood or add a bonding agent. In a kitchen, both need a water-based topcoat.
Comparison at a glance
| Chalk paint | Milk paint | |
|---|---|---|
| Form | Premixed, thick, ready to stir and use | Powder you mix with water |
| Main ingredients | Water-based paint with mineral fillers such as calcium carbonate | Casein (milk protein), lime, chalk or clay, and earth pigments |
| Finished cabinets | Degrease, scuff sand, and spot prime where needed | Sand to bare wood, or use a bonding agent |
| Look | Velvety, ultra-matte, consistent | Thinner, streakier, more variable |
| Coats | Usually 2, or 3 over dark wood | Usually 2 to 3 |
| Kitchen topcoat | Water-based polyurethane | Water-based polyurethane is the most durable option; hemp oil or wax are also used |
What chalk paint is
Chalk paint is a premixed, thick, water-based paint with mineral fillers such as calcium carbonate. Annie Sloan launched the original in 1990, and “Chalk Paint” is a registered trademark. Other brands sell “chalk-style” or “chalked” paints. For the full definition, see what chalk paint is.
What milk paint is
Milk paint is a powder made of casein (a milk protein), lime, chalk or clay, and earth pigments. You mix it with water, roughly one part powder to one part water by volume, though this varies by brand. Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then stir often while you work.
Not every paint sold as milk paint is casein-based. General Finishes Milk Paint, for example, is a premixed acrylic. Check the ingredients on the label if the product matters to your project.
Prep on finished cabinets
This is where the two paints differ most.
- Chalk paint sticks to most finished surfaces after you degrease the cabinets and scuff sand them. Spot prime any tannin-prone wood with shellac.
- Milk paint adheres poorly to varnished, lacquered, or painted wood, and you should expect chipping. You have two options. Sand back to bare wood first (or strip the old varnish), which for paint applied before 1978 in the US means testing for lead before you sand. Or add a bonding agent, such as Miss Mustard Seed’s Bonding Agent or OFMP Extra-Bond, which is often mixed about 1:1 with the paint. Check the brand’s instructions.
Most kitchen cabinets are factory-finished or laminate, so chalk paint is usually the simpler route.
Look and finish
Chalk paint dries to a velvety, ultra-matte finish with consistent, opaque coverage. Milk paint is thinner and streakier, and it varies more from coat to coat. Some people want the variation, and a chipped look can be created on purpose. On finished cabinets, though, chipping is hard to control.
Coats, drying, and tools
Chalk paint usually dries to the touch in 30 to 60 minutes and can be recoated after one to three hours. Use two coats, or three over dark wood.
Milk paint usually needs two to three coats. The first coat may raise the grain, so sand it lightly with 220 grit. Recoat after about 30 minutes to two hours, depending on humidity and the brand.
Either paint can be brushed or rolled. A foam roller gives a smoother result on flat door panels. A sprayer can give the smoothest finish, but it takes practice, equipment, and good ventilation.
Topcoats and sealing
Both paints need protection in a kitchen. Unsealed chalk paint marks and stains easily. Unsealed milk paint is water-sensitive and stains too. Water-based polyurethane is the most durable option for either, and hemp oil or wax is also used on milk paint. See the durability guide for topcoat details.
Cost and brands
Both paints usually cost roughly $25 to $45 per quart. Prices vary by brand and region, so check current prices before you buy.
Common chalk paint brands include Annie Sloan, Rust-Oleum Chalked, and Dixie Belle. Common milk paint brands include Old Fashioned Milk Paint Co., Miss Mustard Seed’s, and Real Milk Paint Co.
Some products sold as “all-in-one” claim built-in primer and topcoat, with no sanding needed. Read the label carefully. Don’t assume a kitchen needs no protective topcoat.
Which should you choose?
- Choose chalk paint if your cabinets are factory-finished or laminate, or if you want a predictable, opaque finish with fewer steps.
- Choose milk paint if you are working on raw or stripped wood and want a traditional, variable look.
- If you want milk paint on finished cabinets, plan to sand back to bare wood or use a bonding agent, and test on a hidden area first.
If you want a harder-wearing finish than either, the best paint for kitchen cabinets covers cabinet enamels.
Common misconceptions
- Chalk and milk paint are the same. They differ in binder, form, and how they adhere.
- Milk paint always chips. Chipping happens on finished surfaces, not on raw wood.
- Milk paint needs no sealer. Unsealed, it stains and water-marks in a kitchen.
Safety
Wear a dust mask when you mix milk paint powder. Lime irritates the eyes and skin, so wear eye protection and gloves too.