Homemade chalk paint: the short answer
Mix flat or eggshell water-based latex or acrylic paint with a filler such as plaster of Paris, calcium carbonate, or unsanded grout. Test it on the back of a door, prep the cabinets the same way you would for store-bought paint, and seal the finish with two or three coats of water-based polyurethane.
Homemade chalk paint is not identical to a commercial product. Texture, adhesion, and finish differ, and the recipe can vary from batch to batch.
What homemade chalk paint is
Homemade chalk paint is ordinary paint with a mineral filler stirred in. The filler helps thicken the paint and gives it a more matte, chalky look. Ratios are approximate, and each recipe behaves a little differently.
Choose a base paint
Use a flat or eggshell water-based latex or acrylic in any color. Flat or eggshell gives the matte look. Glossy paint is not a good base, because it won’t give the chalky finish.
Choose a filler and ratio
| Filler | Starting ratio (per cup of paint) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Plaster of Paris | About 1/3 cup plaster, mixed smooth with about 1/3 cup cool water, stirred into 1 cup paint | Common choice. Sets within a few hours, so mix only what you will use in one session |
| Calcium carbonate | About 2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup | Doesn’t set, so batches keep longer in a sealed jar |
| Unsanded grout | About 2 tablespoons | Sets within a few hours. Contains Portland cement, which is caustic, so wear gloves |
| Baking soda | About 2 to 3 tablespoons | Tends to feel gritty |
One recipe shared online uses about 12 tablespoons of calcium carbonate per quart of flat paint. That is about 3 tablespoons per cup, which falls within the range above. Ratios vary, so record the one you use.
Mix it step by step
- Dissolve the filler first. Mix the powder into a little water before you add it to the paint, to avoid lumps.
- Add it to the paint slowly. Stir well as you go.
- Thin if needed. Add water a little at a time if the mix is too thick.
- Stir often while you work. The solids settle, so stir again before each session.
- Test before the cabinets. Paint a test patch on the back of a door, and check the finish and adhesion.
- Record the recipe. Write down the paint, the filler, and the ratio. Color and texture change between batches.
Prep and paint the cabinets
Prep is the same as for store-bought chalk paint. Degrease the cabinets, scuff sand with 180 to 220 grit, and spot prime tannin-prone woods with shellac (the best primer for wood furniture explains when shellac is the right choice). Paint two or three coats, and sand lightly between coats with 220 to 320 grit. For the full steps, see how to redo kitchen cabinets with chalk paint.
Seal the finish
Homemade paint is just as porous as commercial chalk paint, so it needs a topcoat too. Use two or three coats of water-based polyurethane in matte or satin, and sand lightly between coats. The durability guide explains topcoat choices in more detail.
Common mistakes
- Using glossy paint as the base. It won’t give a matte look.
- Adding too much plaster. It makes the paint brittle and lumpy.
- Expecting a match to commercial paint. Texture, adhesion, and finish differ from brands such as Annie Sloan.
- Skipping the topcoat. Homemade paint is just as porous as store-bought.
- Mixing more than you need. Plaster and grout set within a few hours.
If you plan to glaze the finished doors, see the glaze guide. Glazing over homemade paint follows the same barrier-coat order.
Safety
Wear a dust mask when you handle plaster of Paris or grout powder. Unsanded grout contains Portland cement, which is caustic, so wear gloves.