Short answer: for outdoor teak, a sealer is usually the better choice. For indoor teak, oil is the standard choice. If you’d rather leave the wood unfinished, bare teak will gray over time, and that is a look, not damage.
The short answer
Choose a sealer for outdoor teak. Choose oil for indoor teak if you like the warm color and don’t mind reapplying it. Choose bare teak if you want the silver-gray look and no upkeep at all.
What “teak oil” is made of
Commercial “teak oil” doesn’t contain oil from the teak tree. Most products are a blend of linseed or tung oil, varnish, and solvent. The name is a marketing term. Products differ, so check the label before you buy.
What oil does and doesn’t do
Teak oil soaks into the surface and brings out the wood’s color and grain. That is what most people buy it for. It gives little surface protection, though, so it won’t block UV or water the way a sealer does.
On outdoor furniture, oil needs reapplying about every two to three months, depending on the climate. Oiled outdoor teak is also prone to mildew and black spotting. Many outdoor teak makers advise against oiling it.
Oil that isn’t wiped off turns sticky and attracts dirt, so always wipe away the excess.
What a teak sealer does
A teak sealer forms a protective layer on the wood. Sealers usually contain UV inhibitors, and many also contain mildewcides. Their main job is to keep the golden color. Golden Care Teak Protector, Semco, and Star brite are common examples. Check the label on any product you buy.
A sealer typically lasts about 6 to 12 months outdoors, depending on climate and exposure. Bare outdoor teak tends to gray over roughly the same span, so a sealer is what keeps the color.
Outdoor and indoor teak
Outdoors, use a sealer. It protects against UV and moisture much better than oil does, which makes it the better match for outdoor teak.
Indoors, oil or Danish oil is the usual choice. Sealers are mainly for outdoor use.
Bare teak and the gray patina
Some people prefer to leave outdoor teak bare and let it weather to a silver-gray patina. The gray is surface weathering from sun and moisture. It doesn’t mean the wood is rotting or that the piece is damaged.
Switching from oil to sealer
A sealer needs bare wood to bond, and it won’t bond over fresh or uncured oil. If the teak has been oiled, remove the oil before you seal it. Use a teak cleaner, or sand the surface lightly.
Then clean, rinse, and let the wood dry completely. Allow 24 to 48 hours. Don’t expect a sealer to hold if you put it over oiled teak.
Applying a sealer
Apply the sealer in thin coats, and wipe off the excess before it becomes tacky. Most products need two coats, but follow the label, since the number of coats and the timing vary.
Clean and dry the wood first. For the cleaning steps, see how to clean teak furniture without damaging the wood.
How often to reapply
- Sealer: about every 6 to 12 months outdoors, depending on climate and exposure.
- Oil: about every two to three months outdoors.
- Indoors: reapply oil when the wood looks dry or faded, rather than on a fixed schedule.
Quick comparison
| Teak oil | Teak sealer | Bare teak | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Color | Warm, enriched | Keeps the golden color | Grays over time |
| Surface protection | Little | UV inhibitors, often mildewcides | Relies on the wood’s own oils |
| Outdoor upkeep | About every 2 to 3 months | About every 6 to 12 months | None |
| Best for | Indoor pieces | Outdoor pieces | No upkeep |
Safety
- Oily rags can catch fire on their own as they dry. Lay them flat to dry, or keep them in a water-filled metal can.
- Work in a ventilated space and wear nitrile gloves when you apply oil or sealer.
For indoor pieces and veneer, see restoring mid-century teak furniture.