Restoring an antique is mostly about keeping what makes it valuable and original. Old wood, old glue, and old finishes react to water, solvents, and changes in humidity in ways that modern furniture usually doesn’t. Most lasting damage comes from a well-meaning first step, such as stripping a finish that could have been cleaned, or spraying a household cleaner that hazes the shellac underneath.
This guide follows a conservative order: check the value, clean, revive, repair, touch up, and strip only as a last resort. For specific mistakes to avoid, see what not to do to antique furniture.
Decide whether to restore at all
Antiques are generally considered to be 100 years old or more, and pieces younger than that are often called vintage. Age alone doesn’t make a piece valuable, though. Before you change anything, find out what the piece is worth as it is. A refinished antique often sells for less than one with its original finish, so a piece that might be worth something should be assessed before you sand or strip it. The old furniture value guide explains what drives value.
If the piece is a later reproduction in rough shape, you have more room to experiment. If it might be a valuable antique, consider an appraisal first.
The order of work
Work from the least invasive step to the most:
- Clean the surface with the mildest method that works.
- Revive the existing finish if it’s dull, crazed, or sticky.
- Repair loose joints, lifting veneer, and other damage.
- Touch up small areas of wear or color.
- Strip the finish only if the steps above haven’t worked and the finish is failing.
Stripping is the one step you can’t take back, which is why it comes last.
Clean gently
Dust and grime usually come off with the mildest method that works. For finished wood, a few drops of mild dish soap in warm water is the usual choice. Dawn is a mild dish soap, so it fits this approach, but use the smallest amount that works. Dampen a soft cloth, wring it until it’s nearly dry, wipe with the grain, and dry the surface right away. Don’t soak the wood or use spray cleaners. Water can haze shellac, and ammonia or all-purpose sprays can soften and haze finishes.
For wax and built-up grime, mineral spirits or naphtha are often gentler on old finishes than water. Test any product in a hidden spot first. If you’re wondering whether a cleaner made for wood furniture is a better choice, see whether Murphy’s oil soap can be used on wood furniture.
Revive the finish before you strip
Many finishes that look dead are only dirty, dried out, or crazed. Try these first:
- Clean as described above.
- Reamalgamate a crazed finish by lightly applying its original solvent, which re-flows the surface and closes the cracks. For shellac, that’s denatured alcohol. For lacquer, it’s lacquer thinner. Test in a hidden spot, because the solvent also softens the finish you’re keeping.
- Touch up scratches and worn spots with a matching wax stick or a tinted finish.
Before you apply anything, identify the finish. Denatured alcohol and then lacquer thinner, tested on a hidden spot, will show whether you have shellac, lacquer, or a harder varnish. Removing shellac from antique furniture explains the test in more detail.
Repair joints and veneer
Loose joints and lifting veneer are the most common structural problems. For wobbly or broken legs specifically, see how to repair antique furniture legs.
- Use hide glue for loose joints. Hot hide glue is reversible and bonds well to old hide glue. Liquid hide glue gives you more working time.
- Avoid PVA and epoxy on joints. PVA doesn’t bond well to old glue residue, and epoxy is very hard to reverse later.
- Re-glue lifted veneer with a syringe, then press it flat with a caul, using waxed paper between the caul and the veneer. Let it cure fully. Veneer repair on antique furniture covers chips and missing pieces too.
- Don’t power-sand veneer. Some later veneer is very thin and can sand through.
For the steps to repair and finish a tabletop, see how to refinish an antique table.
Touch up and match color
Small nicks and gouges can be filled with a color-matched wood filler or wax stick. Where wood has faded, a stain can help it match its surroundings, but test it on a hidden area first. Small old holes don’t always need filling, and leaving some of them open is often acceptable.
Strip only as a last resort
Stripping removes the original finish, often along with the patina that gives an antique much of its character. Use it only when the finish is failing badly and can’t be revived. For the full process, see how to strip varnish from wood furniture safely. If you do strip:
- Choose a gentler product, such as a benzyl alcohol stripper, and follow its label. Dwell times vary from under an hour to a day.
- Consumer paint strippers containing methylene chloride have been banned for consumer use in the US, so check the label.
- Ventilate, and wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection.
- Scrape along the grain with a plastic or wooden scraper, then clean with the solvent the label names and #0000 steel wool.
Protect it from humidity, sun, and pests
Most restoration work is undone by a poor environment. Keep the piece at a steady relative humidity of roughly 40 to 55 percent, and away from radiators, vents, fireplaces, and direct sun. Sudden swings loosen joints and crack finishes, so steady conditions matter more than hitting an exact number.
Wood-boring insects can also damage old furniture. Before you treat any holes, check whether the infestation is still active. Repairing woodworm damage explains how.
When to call a conservator
Bring in a professional conservator or an experienced restorer if:
- joints won’t tighten, or the piece racks or wobbles
- veneer is lifting over large areas or is missing
- there’s inlay or marquetry damage
- the finish has deep damage, or you’re not sure what it is
- the piece may be valuable enough that one wrong step would cost a lot
Ask for references and examples of past work. The American Institute for Conservation is a useful starting point for finding conservators.
Safety basics
- Ventilate when using solvents, and keep flames and sparks away from alcohol, lacquer thinner, and mineral spirits.
- Oily rags can catch fire on their own. Dry them flat outdoors, or store them in water in a sealed metal can.
- Paint applied before 1978 may contain lead. Test it before sanding, especially on painted or trimmed pieces.
Where to go next
Restoring a piece is easier when you know what it is. Check whether it’s an antique or a reproduction before you start. If it’s a wooden radio, the radio cabinet guide covers the electronics first. For shellac or French polish, see how to French polish antique furniture.