Short answer: A small starter kit covers most refinishing jobs: a stripper or scraper, sandpaper in a range of grits, a sanding block, brushes and applicators, rags, and basic safety gear. Add power tools and sprayers later, once you know you’ll use them.
Starter kit
- Scrapers: a plastic scraper for stripper, a card scraper for flat areas, and a putty knife with rounded corners
- Sandpaper in 80, 120, 150, 180, 220, and 320 to 400 grit
- A sanding block, and foam pads for curves
- Brushes and foam brushes, lint-free cotton rags, and a tack cloth
- Drop cloths and a bench or sawhorses
- Protective gear (see below)
A basic hand-tool kit can be put together cheaply. Prices vary, so compare before you buy. How much it costs to restore furniture gives a sense of how DIY supply costs compare with professional work.
Stripping and scraping
For stripping, you need a chemical stripper, plastic scrapers, a putty knife, nylon or brass brushes, and fine steel wool (00 to 000) or synthetic pads for cleanup. A card scraper, with its burnished hook edge, removes old finish from flat areas quickly. Profile scrapers suit moldings. How to strip varnish from wood furniture safely covers the stripping steps.
Sanding
- Random-orbit sander (5-inch, or 125 mm) with hook-and-loop discs. Useful for flat surfaces, but optional for a first project.
- Sanding block for hand work, which gives you the most control.
- Sanding sponges or a detail sander for corners and curves.
- Grits from 80 up to 320 to 400, as what grit sandpaper to use on wood furniture explains.
Use stearated, or no-load, paper on finishes, because it resists clogging. Change the paper when it stops cutting. Worn paper burnishes the surface rather than cutting it.
Brushes and applicators
- Natural-bristle brushes suit oil-based finishes.
- Synthetic brushes (nylon or polyester) suit water-based finishes. Natural bristles go limp in water-based finish.
- Foam brushes are useful for stain and small jobs.
- Lint-free cotton rags for wiping on stain.
Avoid steel wool before a water-based finish. Leftover fibers can rust and show through. Use a synthetic pad instead.
Repair and clamping
- Wood glue (PVA or hide glue), a glue syringe for tight joints, and a rubber mallet
- Clamps: bar clamps, F-style clamps, and band clamps for chairs, such as when you fix a loose chair rung
- Stainable wood filler, wax sticks and touch-up markers for small damage
How to repair damaged wood finish explains which fix to use for each kind of damage.
Dust control and workspace
- A shop vacuum, ideally with a HEPA filter
- Tack cloths or microfiber cloths for final wipe-downs
- Dust extraction on the sander, if you have it
- Sawhorses or a bench, and drop cloths. Canvas holds up better than plastic sheeting, which can billow and stick to wet finish.
- Painter’s pyramids or stands for drying pieces
- Good raking light to spot scratches and dust
Work outdoors when you can, or with strong ventilation when you can’t.
Protective gear
- Chemical-resistant gloves and safety glasses or goggles
- An N95 or P100 respirator for dust
- A half-mask respirator with organic-vapor cartridges for solvents, if your product label calls for it
- Hearing protection for power tools
A dust mask doesn’t protect against solvent vapors. Check the stripper or finish label for the gear it requires. Some strippers need glove or respirator types that differ from the usual ones.
Optional upgrades
- Detail sander for tight corners
- HVLP sprayer for even finishes on larger projects. See whether to spray or brush before you buy one.
- Heat gun for softening old finish. Use it carefully, keep it moving, and avoid it on veneer and on paint that may contain lead.
- Cabinet scrapers and a dust collector for bigger workshops
Tools to skip
A belt sander gouges furniture and veneer easily, so most beginners should skip it. An orbital sander is safer for a first project. Hold off on a sprayer until you have finished enough pieces to know you’ll use it.
Safety: oily finishing rags can catch fire on their own as they dry. Dry them flat outdoors, or store them submerged in water in a sealed metal can.