Short answer: In the US, professional refinishing typically runs from about $100 to $400 for a dining chair and from about $400 to $1,500 or more for a dining table. DIY supplies for one piece often come to about $50 to $200. These are rough estimates. Prices vary widely by region, shop and the condition of the piece, so get written quotes before you commit.
Typical professional prices
These are rough US estimates for professional work. Treat them as a starting point, not a quote.
| Job | Rough range (US) |
|---|---|
| Refinish a dining chair | $100 to $400 each |
| Refinish a dining table | $400 to $1,500 or more |
| Refinish a dresser or chest of drawers | $400 to $1,200 or more |
| Refinish a coffee or end table | $150 to $500 |
| Tighten and reglue a loose chair | $50 to $150 per chair |
| Hand-cane a chair seat | About $1 to $2 per hole, or $75 to $250 per seat |
| Upholster a chair | Several hundred dollars per chair |
| Upholster a sofa | $1,000 or more |
Shop labor is often quoted at roughly $50 to $100 or more per hour. Conservators, who work on valuable antiques, charge more. Museum-standard conservation of a valuable antique can cost thousands.
Pre-woven sheet cane usually costs less than hand caning, which is often priced per hole.
What pushes the price up
Several factors raise the cost:
- Lead paint or several layers of old paint, which need careful, slower removal
- Veneer damage, which takes specialist patching or re-veneering
- Carving, which takes time to strip and refinish without losing detail
- Missing parts, which may need to be made or replaced
- Pickup and delivery, especially for large or heavy pieces
Upholstery is extra. It adds the cost of fabric and labor on top of the refinishing.
DIY supply costs
Doing the work yourself is cheaper in cash, but not in time. For one piece, supplies such as stripper, sandpaper, stain, topcoat, brushes and gloves often add up to roughly $50 to $200. Tools add more if you need to buy them. What tools you need to refinish furniture lists a starter kit and what you can skip.
Restoring or buying new
Restoration isn’t always cheaper. For low-value pieces, a professional job can cost more than a comparable new piece. Factor in your own time, the risk of a poor result, and whether the piece is worth the effort.
Restoration is often worthwhile for solid-wood pieces with good construction. The benefits of repairing old furniture instead of replacing it covers when repair makes sense and when replacing is better.
Antiques, value and conservation
Refinishing a genuine antique can cut its market value sharply, and how much depends on the piece. Conservation, which means repairing and preserving the original finish, usually costs more but can protect value.
If you think a piece might be an antique, get an appraisal before you start. The old furniture value guide explains how to find a qualified appraiser. A professional who specializes in antiques can advise whether to conserve, repair or refinish.
Be wary of dip stripping for an antique. Caustic dip tanks can loosen glue joints and damage veneer, so they are not a cheap shortcut for every piece.
Getting useful quotes
- Ask for a written quote, and check what it includes.
- Ask how the shop handles lead paint on pre-1978 pieces.
- Ask whether the quote covers pickup, delivery and any parts that need to be made.
- Compare quotes for the same scope of work. A cheap quote that leaves out stripping or repairs is not a fair comparison.
Many shops quote only after they see the piece, so expect a visit or photos first.