Spray for spindles, louvres, carvings and chairs, and brush or roll for large flat surfaces such as tabletops and dresser fronts. Spraying gives the smoothest, brush-mark-free finish and is fastest on detailed work. Brushing costs less, needs less masking and uses less paint. Both can produce good results with thin coats, and many people use both on the same piece.
Spray: when it wins
Spraying is the best choice for detail. Spindles, louvres, carved mouldings and the many corners of a chair are hard to brush evenly, and a sprayer reaches them without leaving brush marks or drips. It is also much faster on a chair set. The trade-off is preparation: you need to mask, set up a space and clean the gun afterwards.
Brush and roller: when they win
Brushing and rolling work better on large, flat surfaces. A foam roller covers a tabletop or a dresser front quickly, and a light pass of a brush along the grain, called tipping off, removes most of the roller texture. Brushing is also the better choice where you cannot spray safely, such as a small room without ventilation or a windy day outdoors, because it produces no overspray. Water-based paints with a levelling additive such as Floetrol reduce brush marks further.
Spray equipment and waste
- Aerosol cans are convenient for small pieces and chairs. Each can covers only a small area, and you can run through several on a chair.
- HVLP (high-volume, low-pressure) guns put most of the paint on the surface. They are also the usual tool when you spray kitchen cabinets. HVLP guns typically reach 65% or higher transfer efficiency, so less paint ends up as overspray.
- Airless sprayers suit large volumes. They produce more overspray, which makes them less suited to small furniture.
Aerosols and airless sprayers waste more paint as overspray, so spraying does not always use less paint. Overspray often uses more.
Thinning latex for spraying
Latex paint for an HVLP gun usually needs thinning, often by about 10 to 20% water. The exact amount varies by sprayer and paint, so check the paint and gun manufacturer’s guidance, or use a viscosity cup to test. Too thin and the paint runs; too thick and the gun spits or clogs.
Spraying technique and conditions
- Distance: hold an HVLP gun about 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) from the surface, and an aerosol about 10 to 16 inches (25 to 40 cm).
- Overlap: overlap each pass by about 50%.
- Conditions: aerosols generally work best above 10 °C (50 °F) and below about 85% humidity. Check the can, because the exact limits vary.
- Recoat timing: some aerosols say to recoat within an hour or after 48 hours, to avoid wrinkling. Read the can.
Test on scrap wood or paper before you spray the piece, to check the pattern and the distance.
Prep and masking
Spraying throws paint further than you expect. Cover the floor, walls and nearby furniture with drop cloths, paper and tape. Work in a ventilated area, ideally outdoors, away from ignition sources. Brushing needs less masking, but you still need drop cloths under the piece.
Brushing with a conditioner
Use a conditioner such as Floetrol with water-based paint, or Penetrol with oil-based paint, to slow drying and help the paint level. Follow the label ratio. A brush is still the best tool for the corners and fine detail that a roller cannot reach.
Mixing the two
Many finishers roll the flat surfaces, then brush the detail areas, and then go back to tip off the rolled areas. This gives close to a sprayed finish without the masking and equipment. For the full sequence of prep, sanding and thin coats, see wood furniture painting techniques for a smooth finish. For the chair-specific order, see how to paint a wooden chair.
Safety
- Wear a respirator with organic-vapour cartridges and a particulate filter when spraying.
- Spray in a ventilated area away from ignition sources. Aerosols and solvent paints are flammable.
- Never point an airless gun at your skin. Injection injuries are serious and need urgent medical care.