The most costly mistakes with antique furniture often look helpful at the time: refinishing before you know the value, sanding through the patina, spraying on a polish, or gluing a joint with the wrong adhesive. Other common errors include soaking the wood, storing it somewhere damp or hot, and leaving it in direct sun. Many of these can’t be undone, so check before you act.
Don’t refinish before you know the value
Refinishing and stripping can sharply reduce the value of a possibly valuable antique. The original finish and patina are part of what collectors pay for. If there’s any chance the piece is valuable, get an appraisal before you touch it. The old furniture value guide explains what appraisers look at.
Don’t sand through the patina or power-sand veneer
Patina is the layered look that age and use give a surface, and sanding removes it. Power sanders can cut through thin veneer quickly. Work by hand with fine paper, along the grain.
Don’t use the wrong cleaners
- Avoid ammonia and all-purpose spray cleaners. They can soften and haze finishes.
- Skip aerosol furniture polishes. Many contain silicone, which causes “fisheye” craters in later finishes. It’s one of the common furniture refinishing problems.
- Don’t soak or wet-wash the wood. Water can blush shellac white and lift veneer.
- Clean with a mild dish soap solution on a barely damp cloth, and dry the surface right away.
Don’t build up oil and wax
Repeated oil treatments build up gummy residue, darken the wood, and attract dust. Boiled linseed oil doesn’t revive an old finish, because it darkens and gums up. Wood doesn’t need “feeding” with oil.
Wax is fine in small amounts. Apply a thin coat, buff it, and do it once or twice a year at most. Over-waxing causes buildup.
Don’t use the wrong glue or fillers
For a loose joint, use hide glue, which can be softened and reversed later. Repairing antique furniture legs walks through a typical joint repair. PVA and epoxy hold strongly, but they’re hard to undo. Nails and screws also damage the wood and are hard to remove without causing more damage, so they don’t belong in a joint repair.
Don’t replace or polish the original hardware
Keep the original pulls, hinges, and locks. If you must remove a part, keep it and note where it goes. Don’t polish brass hardware to a bright shine on the piece. Polishing wears away the patina and can damage the wood around it.
Don’t leave it where the climate hurts it
Direct sun fades finishes and can damage them. Radiators, vents, and fireplaces dry out wood and cause cracks. Keep antiques away from all of these, and aim for a steady relative humidity of roughly 40 to 55 percent. Don’t store pieces in damp basements or hot attics, since the swings from season to season do the most harm.
Don’t leave things on the surface
Rubber and plastic, such as mats or pads, can soften lacquer and varnish if they stay in contact with it. Don’t put tape on an old finish either, because it can lift the finish when you remove it.
Don’t drag or lift it by the wrong parts
Don’t drag furniture, and don’t lift it by its top or arms. Remove drawers, marble tops, and mirrors first, and carry them separately.
Painting: a judgment call
Painting an antique is a personal decision, and it affects value. Designers and dealers often advise against painting a fine antique, especially one made of cherry, mahogany, or satinwood, because paint lowers its value to collectors. A common piece in poor condition may be a reasonable candidate, and which paint to use on wood furniture covers the options. If you’re unsure, ask an appraiser first, and consider a clear finish that keeps the wood visible.
Where to go next
Start with the antique furniture restoration guide for the order of work. If you’re considering a soap cleaner, check whether Murphy’s oil soap suits your finish. For insect damage, see repairing woodworm damage.