Old furniture isn’t automatically valuable. Plenty of pieces sell for modest sums, while a smaller number, with the right maker, condition, and history, can bring far more. Working out which group your piece falls into is the first step. Do it before you clean, repair, or refinish anything, since those changes often lower value.
What drives value
Appraisers and dealers generally weigh a few factors:
- Maker. A known designer or manufacturer can add significant value.
- Age. An antique is usually defined as 100 years or older. Age matters, but it doesn’t guarantee value on its own.
- Originality. Original finish, hardware, and parts usually beat replaced or refinished ones.
- Condition. Wear that looks like honest use is normal. Serious damage lowers value.
- Rarity and provenance. Unusual pieces and documented histories can add interest.
- Current demand. Tastes change, and some styles sell far better than others at a given time.
Look for the maker’s marks
Labels, stamps, stencils, and brands are often found inside drawers, on the back, or under tops and seats. They can be faked or moved, though, so treat a label as one clue. Check it against the wood, the construction, and the hardware. Telling an antique from a reproduction covers more of these checks.
Originality matters more than shine
Refinishing, replacing hardware, and heavy repairs often lower value, even when the piece looks better to a modern eye. Marriages, where a top and base from different pieces have been joined, and replaced parts also reduce value. If you’re tempted to refinish, read what not to do to antique furniture first. If you’ve already changed a piece, say so in any listing or appraisal request.
Where demand is strongest
Victorian and other mass-produced traditional “brown furniture” has softened for many years, and many common pieces sell for modest amounts. Mid-century modern designer pieces from roughly 1945 to 1970, including well-known Eames, Wegner, Knoll, and Herman Miller designs, have stayed in strong demand. If you own a mid-century teak piece, see restoring mid-century teak furniture before you change its finish. Markets shift, so check current results rather than relying on any single guide.
Check sold prices, not asking prices
An asking price shows what a seller hopes to get, not what buyers paid. Look at sold results instead:
- auction records on sites such as LiveAuctioneers and Invaluable
- eBay sold listings
- WorthPoint, which is a paid subscription service
Compare pieces with the same maker, style, condition, and materials. Small differences can change results a lot.
Insurance value is not resale value
Insurance, or replacement, value is usually higher than what a piece would sell for. An appraisal written for insurance may use a replacement figure, which isn’t the sale price. Ask the appraiser which kind of value the report gives, and expect a different number if you sell.
How to get an appraisal
Look for an appraiser with a recognized credential, such as ASA (American Society of Appraisers), AAA (Appraisers Association of America), or ISA (International Society of Appraisers). Ask whether the report follows USPAP, the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice. Pay a flat or hourly fee. Avoid appraisers who charge a percentage of the value, since that gives them a stake in the number.
Selling your piece
The main routes each have trade-offs:
- Dealers buy at a discount, often well below retail, because they need room to resell.
- Auctions add a buyer’s premium on top of the sale price, commonly around 20 to 30 percent, though it varies by house. Sellers usually pay a commission too, so check the house’s terms.
- Private sales can bring a better price, but they take longer and carry more risk.
Common misconceptions
- Old means valuable. Age alone doesn’t set value.
- Refinishing raises the price. For most antiques, it lowers it.
- An online asking price shows what something is worth. It shows what a seller wants.
- The insurance figure is the sale price. It usually isn’t.
- A label guarantees the age or maker. It doesn’t.