To refinish an antique table, first decide whether it should be refinished at all, identify its finish, and try cleaning or reviving before you strip anything. If stripping is needed, do it gently, repair any damage, sand lightly, then stain and seal with a finish that suits the table. That order protects the patina and any thin veneer.
Check the table first
Refinishing a valuable antique can sharply reduce its value. If there’s any chance the table is valuable, get an appraisal before you start. The old furniture value guide explains what drives price.
Next, check whether the top is solid wood or veneer. Veneer can sand through quickly, so work by hand and with care.
Identify the finish
Test in a hidden spot, such as under the table, with two solvents:
- Denatured alcohol softens shellac. If it does, you have shellac.
- Lacquer thinner softens lacquer. If alcohol does nothing but lacquer thinner works, you have lacquer.
- Neither works: the finish is probably varnish or polyurethane, which resist both.
The finish decides what will work. Shellac comes off with alcohol, lacquer with lacquer thinner, and varnish or polyurethane usually needs a stripper. Removing shellac from antique furniture explains the test in more detail.
Try to revive the finish first
Many tables that look tired only need cleaning or a light touch:
- Clean with a mild dish soap solution or mineral spirits on a soft cloth, to remove years of wax and grime. Avoid soaking the wood and avoid all-purpose sprays.
- Reamalgamate crazed shellac or lacquer by applying its original solvent lightly, so the surface re-flows.
- Refresh a dull finish with a commercial finish restorer and fine #0000 steel wool. Test it first.
If the finish looks good after these steps, stop there.
Strip only if the finish is failing
If the finish is flaking, sticky, or too damaged to revive, strip it:
- Use a benzyl alcohol stripper such as Citristrip. Brush on a thick layer and cover it with plastic wrap so it doesn’t dry out. Dwell times depend on the product, often 30 minutes to 24 hours, so follow the label.
- Scrape the softened finish with a plastic or wooden scraper, working along the grain.
- Remove residue with mineral spirits or whatever cleaner the label names. Finish with #0000 steel wool or a synthetic pad.
- Methylene chloride strippers have been banned for consumer use in the US, so check the label’s ingredients.
Wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection, and ventilate well.
Repair before you finish
Make repairs before any stain goes on. Use hide glue on loose joints, since it can be reversed later. Re-lay lifted veneer the same way. Fill small nicks and gouges with color-matched wood filler. Avoid PVA and epoxy on joints, which are hard to reverse.
Sand lightly, if at all
Sanding should be minimal. If you need it, sand by hand with fine paper, around 180 to 220 grit, always along the grain. Use a sanding block on flat areas and hand sanding on carved legs and tight corners. Avoid coarse paper, which gouges, and never sand in circles. Once you sand through the patina or veneer, you can’t get it back.
Stain with care
Test the stain on the underside or on an inconspicuous leaf. Grain filler gives oak, mahogany, or walnut a glass-smooth top. Pre-raise the grain before using a water-based stain. Apply a pre-stain conditioner on bare wood so the color goes on evenly, and wipe off excess stain before it dries.
Leaves stored away often look lighter than the top, so they may need toning to match.
Seal with a finish that fits the table
Choose a finish based on the table’s age and how it’ll be used:
- Shellac suits many pieces from before about 1920. Apply it in thin coats, using a 1 to 2 pound cut, about 30 to 60 minutes apart.
- Oil-based varnish or polyurethane holds up to heavy use. Follow the product’s recoat times, which often range from a few hours to a day. Full cure can take about a month.
- Polyurethane doesn’t suit every antique. Its look can clash with a period piece.
Keep coats thin. Scuff lightly between coats with 320 to 400 grit if the product calls for it. Seal the underside too, so both faces of the top respond to humidity in a similar way. If the top has already cupped, see how to flatten a warped wood tabletop.
Common mistakes
- Sanding to bare wood by default. Most tables don’t need it.
- Choosing polyurethane for every piece.
- Stripping a table that could have been cleaned or revived.
- Expecting leaves to match the top right away. They usually need time or toning.
Safety
- Test old paint for lead before you sand, especially on painted or trimmed parts.
- Oily rags can catch fire on their own. Dry them flat outdoors, or store them in water in a sealed metal can.
- Ventilate, and wear gloves and eye protection when using strippers.