For most wood furniture, a water-based acrylic or a waterborne alkyd enamel in a satin or semi-gloss sheen is the safest all-round choice. Chalk-style and mineral paints need less preparation and give a softer, matt look, but they usually need a clear topcoat on surfaces that get handled. Oil-based paint is very hard-wearing, but it yellows over time, most visibly on white and cream. Wall emulsion is the one to avoid.
Types of paint for wood furniture
Water-based acrylic (latex). Low odour, easy cleanup with soap and water, and less prone to yellowing than oil-based paint. It is a sound default for many pieces. Recoat times are usually a few hours; check the label.
Waterborne alkyd enamel. Some enamels, such as Benjamin Moore Advance, are water-based but cure to a harder, furniture-grade finish. They level well, so brush marks are less of a problem. Recoat times for some of these are around 16 hours, and the paint keeps curing for weeks.
Oil-based alkyd. Very hard and levels well, but it yellows over time, especially on white. It has higher VOCs, needs mineral spirits for cleanup and takes longer to dry, so ventilate well.
Chalk-style paint. Chalk-style paint is matt, adheres with little prep, and sands or distresses easily. Brands such as Annie Sloan, Frenchic and Dixie Belle are common examples. Unsealed, chalk-style paint marks and stains easily, so surfaces that get handled need wax or a clear lacquer over it.
Milk paint. Made from powdered casein, lime and pigment mixed with water. On finished wood it chips unless you add a bonding agent, and results vary from piece to piece. See can milk paint be used on wood for the details.
Mineral paint. Acrylic-based paints, such as Fusion Mineral Paint, that some brands sell with a built-in topcoat. Cure can take around 21 to 30 days, depending on the brand.
Which paint for which piece
- Dining tables, chairs and children’s furniture take knocks and food. Use a waterborne enamel or water-based acrylic in satin or semi-gloss, and protect the tops with a clear topcoat.
- Decorative pieces that see little contact, such as a display cabinet or a bedside shelf, can take chalk-style or matt paint, finished with wax.
- Dressers and wardrobes sit between the two. A satin finish on the body with a tougher topcoat on the top is a sensible split.
- White or pale paint over dark wood needs a primer first. See how to paint dark wood furniture white.
Kitchen cabinets take heavier wear, so they are covered separately in best paint for kitchen cabinets. Once you have picked the paint, see wood furniture painting techniques for a smooth finish for how to apply it: the prep order, brush and roller technique, and sanding between coats.
Sheen: satin, semi-gloss or matt
Sheen runs from matt (flat) through eggshell and satin to semi-gloss and gloss. Higher sheen is easier to wipe clean, but it shows brush marks, dust and flaws more. Satin or semi-gloss suits high-wear pieces such as tables and chairs. Matt suits decorative pieces. Chalk-style paints are usually matt, so a piece used every day needs a sealed topcoat.
Wall emulsion is a different product. Its matt finish is not designed for furniture, and it stays soft enough that doors and drawers can stick (“block”) when closed.
Dulux and other brand ranges
Dulux sells furniture-suitable lines in some markets, including water-based satinwood and eggshell products. Its ranges, names and availability differ by country, and product names change over time. For example, the product page for Dulux Trade Diamond Satinwood describes cleaning brushes with warm soapy water, which points to a water-based formula. Check the label on the tin you actually buy.
Rather than matching a name, check the spec on the tin:
- Water-based or solvent-based
- Sheen (satin, eggshell, semi-gloss)
- Whether the label says it suits wood, trim or furniture, and whether it needs a topcoat
- Recoat time and cure time
That approach works for any brand, including ones not named here.
Paints to avoid on furniture
- Wall emulsion. Made for walls, not for surfaces that rub and bump.
- Paint and primer in one. These are thicker paints. They can suit some jobs, but they are not a stain-blocking primer, and tannins can still bleed through them.
- Oil-based topcoats over white. They turn a white finish yellow over time.
Do you need a primer?
A primer is worth using when the wood has knots, tannins (oak, mahogany, cherry, redwood, cedar), a glossy old finish, laminate or MDF edges. Use one too when you go from a dark finish to a light one, or switch from an oil-based paint to a water-based one.
For the shellac, oil-based and bonding options, read the guide to the best primer for wood furniture. If you are wondering whether you can skip the primer on bare wood, see can I paint directly on wood without primer.
Drying, recoating and curing
Dry to the touch does not mean cured. Recoat only after the time on the label. For water-based paints that is often two to four hours; for oil-based paints, 16 to 24 hours. Most water-based paints need two to four weeks to cure fully, so handle the piece gently and keep hot dishes and heavy loads off it in that time. The same timing applies to tables, which are covered in how to paint a wooden dining table.
Safety
- Paint applied before 1978 in the US may contain lead. Rules differ in other countries, so test any old painted piece before you sand it. A lead test kit or a lab test will tell you.
- Wear a P2 or N95 dust mask (or better) when you sand.
- Use an organic-vapour respirator with solvent paints and sprays, and ventilate well.
- Oily rags can catch fire by themselves. Dry them flat outdoors, or store them in water in a sealed metal can.