Identify the surface first
The finish decides which method will work. Black gloss furniture usually has one of these:
- Lacquer. A clear or colored coating that dries by evaporation. It’s fairly thin, so there’s less margin for error.
- Polyester. A thick, hard finish, often found on piano-style cabinets. It tolerates more polishing.
- Painted MDF or wood. A gloss paint over a board. A scratch that goes through the paint shows the base color.
- Acrylic. A plastic gloss surface that scratches more easily and needs a plastic polish.
- High-gloss laminate or foil. A printed or foil surface on a board, common on flat-pack furniture. It can’t be sanded or polished the way wood can.
Dark gloss shows scratches more than most colors, because light scatters off the scratch. That makes even small marks easy to see, so it’s worth working carefully.
The fingernail test
Run a fingernail gently across the scratch. If the nail doesn’t catch, the scratch is only in the clear top layer, and it can usually be polished out. If the nail catches, the scratch has cut deeper into the finish or the base, and it will need wet sanding or a touch-up.
Polishing light swirls and fine scratches
For fine swirls and light scratches, use a fine polishing compound on a soft microfiber cloth or foam pad. Automotive swirl removers are often used on lacquer and polyester finishes. Work a small area at a time, wipe off the residue, and check the result under good light. Test any product on a hidden spot first.
Acrylic needs a different approach. Use a plastic polish made for acrylic. A two-step process is common: a cutting polish for scratches, then a finer polish to restore the shine. Clean the surface first with mild soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid paper towels and ammonia-based cleaners, which can cloud acrylic.
Wet sanding and polishing deeper scratches
When the fingernail catches, wet sanding may be needed. Wrap fine wet-or-dry paper around a block so the surface stays flat. Work through progressively finer grits, such as 1500, then 2000, then 3000, keeping the paper and the surface wet. Then polish with a compound, and finish with a polish to bring back the shine.
On a thin finish, wet sanding can cut through the film, so stop as soon as the scratch is gone. Edges and corners burn through first, so stay off them. Don’t skip the grits to save time, because coarser paper leaves deeper marks that are harder to polish out.
Touch-up for scratches that reach the base
If a scratch has gone through the finish to the base layer, fill the spot with black touch-up lacquer or paint in thin layers. Build it up gradually, let each layer cure, and level it before adding more. Touch-up markers can leave a flat, dull spot, so the area usually needs a clear coat or polishing to blend in.
Cure times vary, often one to three days, so follow the product label before you sand or polish the repair.
Scratches on black gloss plastic or acrylic
Acrylic and other plastic gloss surfaces scratch more easily than lacquer, and they should be polished with a plastic polish made for the material. Use light pressure and a soft cloth. Heavy abrasives can leave a hazy finish that’s harder to correct.
If the surface is a thin laminate or foil, it can’t be sanded or polished. Minor marks may be hidden, but a deep scratch usually means replacing the panel.
Restoring old dark wood
Old dark wood furniture often has a film finish that has dulled with age, and dirt or old wax can make it look worse than it is. Start by cleaning. Then test a small, hidden area with a mild cleaner and a light coat of a finish-restoring product designed for wood. Scratches that are only in the finish can often be softened this way. How to repair damaged wood finish covers white rings, worn spots and reamalgamation too.
If the finish is badly worn or the damage goes deeper, how to restore a veneer furniture surface covers finish identification and a least-invasive order of steps that also applies to solid wood.
Shortcuts that do more harm than good
- Toothpaste. It’s an uneven abrasive, and it often leaves a haze on gloss.
- Melamine foam pads (sometimes sold as magic erasers). They’re abrasive and can dull the surface.
- Wax or polish. These can hide a scratch for a short time, but they don’t remove it, and they wash off.
- Oil products such as WD-40. They can make a light scratch look less visible for a while, but they leave residue. Does WD-40 take scratches out of wood explains why.
- Repeated polishing. Every pass removes a little finish, so there’s a limit to how often you can do it.
Test before you commit
Test any product on a hidden area first, such as the underside of a drawer, a back panel or a foot. Let the test area cure fully before you judge the result. Start with the mildest method that could work. If a repair still doesn’t improve after a few careful attempts, it’s usually better to stop and check the finish type again than to keep working at it.
For scratches that are in the wood rather than the gloss finish, how to repair deep scratches in wood furniture covers wax fill sticks and burn-in sticks.
Safety
Use aerosol lacquer touch-ups with good ventilation and no ignition sources nearby, since they’re flammable. Wear gloves and eye protection when you use compounds or solvent cleaners.