Is it humidity or a mechanical fault?
Start by asking when the drawer sticks. If it binds only in humid weather and runs fine in winter, the cause is probably humidity swelling the wood. Don’t trim or plane the drawer for seasonal sticking, because it may become loose when the air dries out.
If the drawer sticks all year, the cause is more likely mechanical. The usual suspects are dirty or worn runners, loose drawer joints, a sagging bottom, debris in the cabinet, or a missing guide.
Find the rub points
Pull the drawer partway out and look for shiny, burnished spots on the drawer sides and the frame. Those spots mark where the wood is binding.
A chalk test helps too. Rub chalk along the drawer sides, reinsert the drawer, slide it in and out a few times, then take it out and see where the chalk has transferred. Those are the spots that rub.
Clean the runners and tracks
Pull the drawer all the way out. Vacuum the runners, the bottom edges and the inside of the cabinet with a brush attachment. Dust, hair and grit build up and add friction. Wipe the runners with a dry cloth afterward.
Lubricate with wax, and what to avoid
Rub paraffin, candle wax, beeswax or a hard paste wax along the drawer’s bottom edges, sides and runners. Wax reduces friction without collecting dirt, which makes it the usual choice. Use a plain, unscented candle, or a paste wax, and let the paste dry before you put the drawer back.
Bar soap also works as a quick fix. It leaves a slick film, but it can attract a little moisture, so treat it as temporary.
Avoid oil, grease and silicone sprays. Oils and grease attract dirt and can gum up the runners. Silicone sprays work, but they contaminate the wood for future refinishing. WD-40 has the same problem. Petroleum jelly is sometimes suggested, but it’s oil-based, so the same caution applies.
Sanding high points without trimming too much
If lubricating doesn’t solve the problem, sand the rub points lightly. Use 120 to 180 grit on a block, and work only on the exact contact spots. Wipe away the dust and reapply the wax.
Avoid planing the drawer front or trimming the sides to make it fit. That rarely fixes the cause, and removed wood can’t be put back. Take off small amounts, and only after you’ve confirmed that the sticking isn’t seasonal.
Worn sides, runners and loose joints
Worn drawer sides can be planed straight along the bottom edge, then fitted with hardwood strips glued on to restore the height. Worn or grooved runners can be flipped, patched or replaced with hardwood.
Loose dovetails let the drawer rack from side to side. Re-glue them, and check that the box is square by measuring the two diagonals. For a loose chair joint with similar steps, how to fix a loose chair rung covers the regluing process.
Stops, kickers and floating bottoms
- Kickers sit above the drawer sides and keep the drawer from tipping down when it’s opened. If one is missing, the drawer can drop and catch. Replace missing kickers.
- Drawer stops at the back or front set how far the drawer goes in. Worn stops can let it travel too far.
- Drawer bottoms made of solid wood should float in their grooves so they can move with the seasons. A glued or nailed bottom can push the sides out and make the drawer bind. If a bottom has sagged, reseat it so it can still move, rather than gluing it solid.
Antique drawer interiors were often left unfinished on purpose. Leave them as they are unless they’re causing the sticking. What not to do to antique furniture lists other changes to avoid.
Obstructions and humidity
Check the cabinet for anything catching the drawer, such as a loose item that has shifted or debris in the cavity. This is common in crowded kitchen drawers. Clear the space and remove loose parts.
For humidity, keep indoor relative humidity roughly 35 to 55 percent. A dehumidifier or better ventilation in a damp room helps the wood stay stable.
For the wider picture of damage to wood furniture, see wood furniture repair.
Safety
Support heavy drawers fully when you remove them, since they can drop and cause injury or damage.