Start with the least invasive option
Worn veneer doesn’t always need refinishing. Work through the steps in order, and stop as soon as the surface looks right:
- Clean the surface.
- Revive the finish, if it’s still there.
- Repair lifting, blisters and chips.
- Refinish only if the surface still needs it.
Refinishing removes the old finish and can also remove the patina that gives an antique much of its value. That’s why the gentler options come first.
Identify the finish first
Before you use any product, find out what finish is on the piece. Two simple tests help:
- Denatured alcohol softens and dissolves shellac. Dab a small, hidden spot with a cotton swab. If the finish softens, it’s shellac.
- Lacquer thinner softens lacquer. If the finish softens under it, it’s lacquer.
- If neither works, the finish is probably varnish, polyurethane or a catalyzed finish. These need a different approach, usually a chemical stripper.
Let the test area dry before you judge the result.
Clean and revive
Start with a barely damp cloth and a mild soap. Mineral spirits or naphtha can cut wax and grime, but test them first. Work in small areas, and dry the surface right away. Keep water to a minimum, because it can loosen hide glue and raise the grain.
Shellac and lacquer can sometimes be revived with their own solvent, a process called reamalgamation. A thin application of alcohol on shellac, or lacquer thinner on lacquer, softens the finish so it flows back together. Test on a hidden spot first.
Some restorer products blend minor scratches and wear without removing the finish. Test them as well.
Be careful with silicone-based furniture polishes. They can cause fisheyes in a finish applied later, so check the label of any polish that has been used on the piece.
Repair lifting and chips before any refinishing
Fix lifting, blisters and chips before you refinish. A new finish over loose veneer can lock the problem in place. Veneer repair on antique furniture covers the methods for lifting, blisters and patches.
How to refinish a veneer table
Refinish only if the surface still looks worn after cleaning and reviving. The work is slow and careful.
Stripping along the grain
Stripping is usually safer than sanding on veneer, because the stripper softens the finish without removing wood. A gel or paste stripper works best on upright surfaces, since it clings. Follow the label for dwell time, which can range from about 15 minutes to several hours. Scrape with a plastic scraper, working along the grain. Use synthetic pads or soft brushes on carvings and detail.
Avoid heat guns on veneer, because the heat can loosen the glue. Avoid soaking the veneer with water-based strippers, which can also loosen the glue.
Neutralizing after stripping
Most strippers leave a residue. Clean the surface as the label directs, often with mineral spirits, and let it dry completely before sanding.
Hand sanding after stripping
Hand sand only, with a sanding block, going with the grain. Start with 180 to 220 grit, which is fine enough for veneer. Modern veneer is thin, so a random-orbit sander can sand through it quickly, and edges and corners go first. Avoid belt sanders and coarse grits on veneer.
Open-pored woods, such as mahogany, walnut and oak, need a grain filler for a smooth finish. Grain filler is a different product from crack filler. It’s made for open pores.
Choosing a finish
Shellac is traditional and can be repaired later. How to French polish antique furniture covers the traditional method. Wipe-on polyurethane is more durable but harder to repair. Paste wax over a cured finish suits a low-wear piece. Test the finish on a scrap of matching wood before you use it on the piece.
Watch-outs specific to veneer
- Water can loosen glue. Use as little as possible.
- Heat releases glue. Avoid heat guns, and use an iron only for reglueing.
- Sand-through is hard to hide. A lighter patch or exposed substrate is difficult to fix with stain.
- Silicone polish can cause fisheyes. Check any polish used on the piece before refinishing.
- Steel wool can rust under a water-based finish. Use synthetic pads instead.
Scratches on the surface
Light scratches in a finish can often be softened or blended with a restorer product or a matching polish, without refinishing. Deeper scratches need filling and coloring. For the method, see how to repair deep scratches in wood furniture. If the scratches are on veneer specifically, veneer repair on antique furniture explains how to tell finish-only damage from damage that reaches the veneer.
Keeping the patina on antiques
Sun-faded color and a soft shine, called patina, can add value to an antique, and refinishing removes it. See what not to do to antique furniture. Before you refinish an old piece, ask whether the finish needs to be fully replaced, or whether a clean and a gentle revival would be enough. If you’re unsure, especially with a valuable piece, a furniture restorer can advise you before you start.
Safety
- Denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner and mineral spirits are flammable. Use them with good ventilation, away from flames and heat sources.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection with strippers and bleaches. Nitrile gloves can fail quickly with some solvents, so check the label for the right glove material.
- In the US, consumer sales of methylene chloride paint strippers were banned in 2019, but older stock can still turn up. Read the label, and work with good ventilation.
- Oily rags can heat up and catch fire. Lay them flat to dry outdoors, or keep them in water in a sealed metal container.