Short answer: strip first, then sand lightly
For veneer, strip the old finish first, then sand lightly to smooth the surface. Veneer is thin, and old finish can be nearly as thick as the veneer itself, so sanding the finish off can cut through to the wood below. Stripping removes the finish without removing wood.
If the finish is sound and only needs a light scuff before a new coat, sanding alone can be fine.
Why sanding veneer is risky
Modern veneer is often about 0.6 mm thick, or roughly 1/42 inch. Antique veneer is often thicker, sometimes around 1.5 to 3 mm. Either way, it’s thin enough that a sander can go through the surface in seconds, leaving a lighter patch or bare substrate.
Once veneer is sanded through, there’s no simple fix. Stain won’t hide a sand-through, and a patch is a bigger job. For that reason, the first question is whether the old finish can come off without sanding.
When sanding alone is fine
Sanding is a reasonable choice in a few situations:
- Solid wood with a thin finish. Solid wood can take more abrasion than veneer. If you’re not sure which you have, see how to tell solid wood from veneer furniture.
- A sound finish that only needs a recoat. Scuff-sand with 220 to 320 grit, wipe away the dust, and add a new coat. No stripping is needed.
- Bare wood with no thick finish. Sanding is faster and gives more control.
Even on veneer with a sound finish, keep the pressure light and sand by hand.
How to strip veneer safely
Choosing a stripper
Use a gel or paste stripper, since it clings to vertical surfaces. Shellac comes off with denatured alcohol, and lacquer with lacquer thinner, so you may not need a harsh stripper for those finishes. See how to remove shellac from antique furniture. Varnish and polyurethane usually need a chemical stripper, and how to strip varnish from wood safely covers the choices.
Follow the label for dwell time, which can range from about 15 minutes to several hours. Water-based strippers that rely on soaking aren’t a good fit for veneer, because water can loosen hide glue and lift the veneer.
Scraping along the grain
Scrape with a plastic scraper, working along the grain. Use synthetic pads or soft brushes on carvings and detail. A metal scraper can cut into thin veneer, so keep it away from the surface.
Avoid heat guns on veneer, because the heat can release the glue.
Neutralizing the surface
Most strippers leave a residue. Clean the surface as the label directs, often with mineral spirits or the neutralizer the product recommends. Let it dry fully before sanding.
Finish sanding after stripping
Sand by hand with a sanding block, going with the grain. Start with 180 to 220 grit, which is finer than what you’d use on solid wood. If you use a random-orbit sander, use 180 grit or finer, keep the pressure light, and stay off the edges and corners, which burn through first.
Avoid belt sanders and coarse grits on veneer. Check the surface often as you go.
Recognizing sand-through
Sand-through shows up as a lighter patch, a change in texture, or glue and the material underneath showing through. If you see it, stop right away. Small areas can sometimes be touched up. Larger areas may need a veneer patch, which veneer repair on antique furniture covers.
Safety
- Ventilate the work area, and wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection, since strippers splash. Butyl gloves hold up better against harsh strippers than nitrile, so check the label for the right glove material.
- Denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner are flammable. Keep them away from flames and heat sources, and dispose of oily rags safely. They can heat up and catch fire.
- In the US, consumer sales of methylene chloride strippers were banned in 2019, but older stock may still turn up. Sanding old finishes can release dust, and older paint may contain lead. Test painted surfaces before you sand them, and wear a respirator.
For the full refinishing sequence, read how to restore a veneer furniture surface.