Save the broken piece first
If the corner has broken off as a piece, don’t throw it away. Regluing the original piece is the best repair, because the grain and color match exactly. Keep it with the furniture, and check that it fits before you glue anything.
Reglue the chip
Reglue a chip with PVA glue, or with a thick cyanoacrylate (CA) glue for a quick bond. Remove any dirt or old glue from the break first, since it blocks the bond. Test-fit the piece, then clamp it while the glue sets. Stretched painter’s tape can work as a clamp on a small piece.
Rebuilding a missing corner
When wood is missing, rebuild the shape with filler. A corner takes more strain than a flat patch, so the filler needs to be strong enough to hold its shape.
Building a dam
A dam holds the filler in shape while it sets. Cut a piece of cardboard or a stiff plastic card to the angle of the corner, and rub a thin film of petroleum jelly on the surface so the filler doesn’t stick to it. Slide the card under the damaged corner so the filler can be formed against it.
Choosing a filler
Two-part epoxy putty shapes and holds better than one-part filler on a corner. A standard wood filler on a corner often breaks off. Mix epoxy in small amounts and use it within its working time, and wear gloves, since epoxy is a skin sensitizer.
Two-part polyester filler, sometimes sold as auto body filler, is fast and hard. It releases styrene fumes, so ventilate, and it suits painted pieces better than stained ones.
For a small chip, thin CA glue mixed with sawdust makes a quick, hard fill. The color can darken as it cures, so test it first.
Shaping and sanding
Overfill slightly, then shape the cured fill with a file, a sanding block or a chisel to match the profile of the corner. Sand gently, since sanding the whole corner can damage the finish around the repair. A slightly rounded corner hides a repair better than a sharp one.
Matching a finished or stained corner
Stained fills need a base color first, and then grain lines. Choose a color close to the wood, let it cure, and add grain with a fine touch-up marker. Stainable fillers don’t take stain the way wood does, so color them separately rather than relying on the stain to match.
For a finished piece, wax fill sticks can fill small chips in the finish, but wax is soft and can rub off an exposed corner over time. A harder burn-in stick lasts longer. How to repair deep scratches in wood furniture covers both methods. Once the fill has cured, match the sheen with an aerosol finish of satin, semi-gloss or gloss.
Painted furniture
On a painted piece, two-part polyester filler is fast and hard. Shape the cured filler, prime it, and paint over it. The best primer for wood furniture helps you choose one. Sand lightly between coats to blend the repair. Ventilate while you work, since polyester fillers release styrene fumes.
Veneer, laminate and MDF corners
- Veneered corners. Patch with matching veneer rather than filler, since filler over veneer looks obvious. Veneer repair on antique furniture covers the method.
- Laminate and edge-banded corners. Reglue the banding, or replace it. Laminate can’t be built up the way solid wood can.
- MDF corners. MDF chips easily and swells with water. Seal the repair and the edges so water can’t get in. How to paint MDF cabinet doors explains how to seal MDF edges.
For a crack that runs into a corner, what is the best wood crack filler helps you choose between the options.
Reducing the chance of a repeat chip
- Round the corner slightly. A softened edge is less likely to chip, and it hides a repair better.
- Keep the finish in good repair. A chipped finish exposes the wood underneath.
- In a busy home, corner guards or pads can help protect a corner that gets knocked often.
Safety
Wear gloves when you work with epoxy. Ventilate when you use polyester filler, since it releases styrene fumes.