Remove and label the drawers and hardware, clean and sand the piece, and prime if the wood is tannin-rich, knotty or glossy. Paint the drawer fronts lying flat and the frame, leave the drawer sides and runners bare, and topcoat the top with water-based polyurethane. Leave the drawers open for several days so the paint cures without sticking, and anchor a tall dresser to the wall.
Remove and label drawers and hardware
Take out every drawer and remove the hardware. Number the drawers and their openings with masking tape, and bag the screws for each drawer separately. Take a photo of the arrangement before you start, so the drawers go back in the right place.
Clean, repair and sand
Clean with a degreaser, then let the piece dry. Repair veneer chips and loose joints before you paint, because paint will not fix either. Fill old hardware holes or dents with wood filler, sand them flush and scuff-sand the surfaces with 180 to 220 grit.
Prime when needed
Use a shellac-based or oil-based primer on tannin-rich wood (oak, mahogany, cherry), on knots, or on glossy finishes. Chalk-style paint on a clean, scuffed, sound surface can often go on without a separate primer. See the guide to the best primer for wood furniture if you are unsure.
Paint the drawer fronts flat
Lay each drawer flat, face up, to let the paint level and to avoid drips running down the front. Paint the fronts and their edges in thin coats. Paint the face frame of the carcass, not the inside runners. Two to three thin coats are usual, and you should sand lightly with 220 to 320 grit between coats.
Working with the drawers flat also makes it easier to see drips. Do not paint drawers in place, because that seals them shut and makes drips harder to fix.
Leave the runners bare
Paint only the fronts and edges. Leave the drawer sides and runners bare, because paint on them makes the drawers stick. Once the paint is cured, rub candle or paraffin wax along the runners for smooth sliding. If a drawer still sticks, see how to fix a sticking wooden drawer.
Coats and topcoat
Topcoat the dresser top with two to three coats of water-based polyurethane or polycrylic. The top takes the most wear, so it deserves the most protection. Allow each coat to dry fully before you recoat.
Musty drawer interiors
Musty drawers need cleaning first, as covered in how to clean old wood furniture before refinishing. Clean the inside, air out the drawers and sprinkle baking soda to absorb odour, then wipe it away. If the odour persists, seal the interior with a clear shellac or a shellac-based primer. Do this before you reassemble the drawers, and let it dry fully.
Let the drawers dry open
Leave the drawers out or slightly open for several days after painting. Fresh latex-style paint can stick (“block”) when the drawers are closed too soon. Most water-based paints take two to four weeks to cure fully, so handle the drawers gently in that time.
Anchor the dresser
After reassembly, anchor a tall dresser to the wall with an anti-tip kit. Tall dressers can tip over, and this is especially important in homes with children.
Safety
- In the US, paint applied before 1978 may contain lead. Test before you sand, and wear a dust mask.
- Ventilate well when you use shellac or oil-based primers.
- For the wider choice of paint, see which paint to use on wood furniture.