A smooth painted finish on wood furniture comes mostly from preparation and thin coats, not from the brand of paint. Most brush marks, drips and grit trace back to a skipped step: a greasy surface, a rushed sanding job, or a coat applied too thickly. Work in the order below and the finish will level out far better.
Work in the right order
The usual sequence is clean and degrease, repair, scuff-sand, remove dust, prime, paint, and then topcoat. Degrease with sugar soap, a TSP substitute, or a degreaser such as Krud Kutter, then rinse and let the wood dry fully. Fill dings and gouges with wood filler, sand them flush, and re-glue any loose joints before you paint. Wood furniture repair covers those fixes.
Sand the right way
- Existing finish: scuff with 180 to 220 grit. You only need to dull the gloss, not strip it.
- Bare or rough wood: start at 120 grit, then move up to 180 to 220.
- Between coats: use 220 to 320 grit. For the last coats, go as fine as 320 to 400.
Remove the dust with a vacuum, then wipe with a damp microfibre cloth. Oily tack cloths can leave a residue that water-based paint will not bond to, so avoid them under water-based coats.
Choose brushes and rollers
Use a synthetic (nylon or polyester) brush with water-based paint, and a natural-bristle brush with oil-based paint. A 2 to 2.5 inch (50 to 63 mm) angled brush suits most furniture. For flat panels, a high-density foam roller of about 4 inches (100 mm) gives a smoother coat. Follow the roller with a light pass of a dry brush along the grain to tip off the roller texture.
Thin coats and brush technique
Load the brush with paint to about a third of the bristle length, then work with long strokes along the grain. Keep a wet edge by overlapping each stroke while the paint is still open. Thin coats beat thick ones: heavy coats sag, drip and take far longer to dry.
Conditioners help with levelling. Floetrol suits water-based paint and Penetrol suits oil-based paint. Follow the label for the mixing ratio, because too much conditioner can slow drying.
Conditions and layout
Work at roughly 15 to 27 °C (60 to 80 °F) and moderate humidity, out of direct sun and draughts. The exact range depends on the product, so check the label. Lay doors and drawer fronts flat so the paint can level. Use raking light, a lamp held low across the surface, to spot drips, brush marks and nibs before the paint cures.
Common mistakes
- Adding more thick coats to hide brush marks. Thicker coats create more marks.
- Going back over semi-dry paint. It drags and leaves marks behind.
- Assuming expensive paint means you can skip sanding between coats. It does not.
- Believing spraying is the only route to a smooth finish. A brush and foam roller, used carefully, gets close on flat surfaces.
- Treating dry to the touch as ready. Check the recoat time on the label, and remember that a cured finish takes much longer.
Decorative effects are a different job
Dry brushing, glazing, distressing and paint pouring add character, but they are not about smoothness. If you want a worn look, see how to distress furniture for an antique white look or the shabby chic paint guide. Chalk-style paint can be smoothed once dry with a brown paper bag or 400-grit paper.
Safety
- Wear a P2 or N95 dust mask (or better) when you sand.
- Test old paint for lead before you sand it, especially on older pieces.
- Ventilate well when you use solvent-based primers, paints or conditioners.