Use white water-based paint, either latex or acrylic, thinned with water to make a wash. White chalk-style paint thinned the same way also works, and it dries matt. Brush the wash on, then wipe most of it back so the grain shows through. Seal the finish with a water-based matt or satin topcoat.
Latex or chalk: which to use
Latex or acrylic is the most common choice. It is inexpensive, easy to thin and easy to clean up. Chalk-style paint is a good alternative if you want a matt, chalky finish and a little more depth. Both need bare or stripped wood to soak in properly.
Mixing the wash
Thin the paint with water to make a wash that is thin enough to spread easily, but not so thin that it will not stick to the wood. Common ratios are:
- 1 part paint to 1 part water for a stronger, more opaque wash.
- 1 part paint to 3 parts water for a sheerer wash that shows more grain.
Ratios vary with the brand, because some paints are thicker than others. If the mix is too thick, it will be hard to rub on and wipe off, and it will leave too much paint behind. If it is too thin, it will barely stick. Test the mix on a sample board of the same wood, let it dry, and adjust before you start on the piece.
Applying and wiping back
Work in small sections. Brush the wash on along the grain, or apply it with a rag, then wipe back the excess with a damp cloth after a few minutes. Wipe more for a sheerer look and less for a stronger one. Build the finish in layers rather than applying one heavy coat, since layers look more natural and are easier to control.
For the detail areas, such as grooves in legs and an apron, use a small brush to apply the wash and then wipe it lightly with a damp rag.
Whitewash, liming and pickling stain
These three finishes are often confused, but they differ.
- Whitewash: a thinned paint wash, wiped back, that leaves white in the grain.
- Liming wax: used on open-grain woods such as oak and ash, and common on pickled oak cabinets. You open the pores with a brass or bronze brush along the grain, rub in the wax, and wipe off the excess. Steel brushes and steel wool can leave iron particles that react with tannins and turn the wood black, so avoid them on oak.
- Pickling stain: a ready-made white stain, such as Minwax White Wash Pickling Stain, that soaks into bare wood.
Bare wood needed
Whitewash needs bare or stripped wood to soak in. Over a varnish, it sits on top and wipes off unevenly. Sand bare wood to 150 to 180 grit. Finer grits reduce absorption, so the wash will look thinner.
Tannin and pine caveats
Tannin-rich woods can turn a white wash yellowish or pinkish, so test the wash on a hidden area first. Pine takes whitewash blotchily, much as it blotches with stain. A pre-stain conditioner can even out the absorption before you apply the wash.
Sealing
Seal the finish with a water-based matt or satin polyurethane or polycrylic. Oil-based clear coats yellow white finishes, so avoid them. For a deeper, aged look, you can add a clear wax over the whitewash, but wax is not durable on a tabletop.
Lime whitewash is not for furniture
Traditional lime whitewash, made from slaked lime and water, is for walls and outbuildings. It rubs off furniture, and slaked lime is caustic. If you use it at all, wear gloves and eye protection, and do not use it on pieces people will touch.
Safety
- Slaked lime is caustic. Use gloves and eye protection if you use traditional whitewash.
- Wear a dust mask when you sand or strip bare wood.
- For the wider choice of paint for furniture, see which paint to use on wood furniture.