Yes. Wood veneer takes paint like solid wood once it is properly prepared. Veneer is a thin layer of real wood glued over a core, so it needs gentle handling: fix any lifting edges, sand lightly by hand, avoid soaking it with water, and prime with shellac or a bonding primer before you paint.
Veneer or laminate?
Look at the edges, as described in how to tell solid wood from veneer furniture. Veneer shows a thin layer of real wood, and the grain does not continue around the corners. Patterns often repeat or are book-matched across panels. Laminate is a plastic or printed-paper surface, and it behaves differently: it needs a bonding primer even when you use chalk paint. Modern veneer is often around 0.5 to 0.6 mm thick, though older veneers can be thicker.
Fix lifting veneer first
Painting over lifting veneer will not glue it down. Fix any lifting or bubbled areas before you prime. For more detail, see veneer repair. Inject wood glue under the lifted edge with a syringe, then clamp or weight the area until the glue cures. Wipe away the squeeze-out.
Old hide glue or PVA can sometimes be softened to re-lay a small bubble. Put a cloth over the bubble and use a clothes iron on a low setting, then clamp it. Test this on a hidden area first, because too much heat can damage the finish.
Fill chips and sand lightly
Fill chips and missing pieces of veneer with wood filler or a two-part epoxy putty, then sand flush. Sand the whole surface by hand with 180 to 220 grit, which is enough to dull the finish and give the primer something to grip. Veneer is thin, and it can be sanded through quickly, especially at the edges. Avoid aggressive power sanding and heavy stripping. If you sand through to the core, the exposed core will soak up paint unevenly.
Avoid water
Keep water to a minimum. Particleboard and MDF cores swell when wet, and water softens hide glue, so wipe cleaning solutions on with a damp cloth instead of soaking the piece. Dry the surface promptly.
Prime
Use a shellac-based primer on tannin-rich veneers such as mahogany and walnut, because it stops bleed. On slick or factory-sealed finishes, use a water-based bonding primer for adhesion. A standard primer can fail to grip a slick veneer, so use a primer designed for adhesion. Apply one or two thin coats and let each dry fully.
Paint
Chalk-style paint works well on veneer and needs little sanding, though the veneer should still be cleaned and dulled. For a harder finish that suits kitchen or high-use furniture, use a waterborne enamel or a cabinet enamel. Apply two to three thin coats, sanding lightly between them. Spraying gives the smoothest result on flat veneer, but a brushed or rolled finish also works if you go slowly. For more on the choice between spraying and brushing, see is it better to spray paint or brush paint wood furniture.
Seal the finish with a water-based topcoat or wax, depending on the use.
Check the value of antiques
Veneered furniture is not always cheap. Much fine antique furniture is veneered. Painting an antique can reduce its value, so check before you start. If you are unsure whether a piece is valuable, get an appraisal first. The old furniture value guide explains what drives value. For a related check on antiques, see how to distress furniture for an antique white look.
Safety
- Test older finishes for lead before you sand. In the US, paint applied before 1978 may contain lead.
- Wear a dust mask when you sand, and ventilate well when you use shellac or solvent-based primers.
- Shellac is flammable, so keep flames and heat away from it.